In Kherson city, sympathies for Russia complicate reintegration into Ukraine
KHERSON,
Ukraine — When the Russians occupying her city came for the maritime
college where she worked, Maryna Ivanovka refused to fall in line. The
60-year-old administrator was fired and banned from campus. Her house
was raided and her phone, computers and passport were confiscated. A
pro-Russian underling was installed in her place.
Months
later, the occupation of Kherson suddenly began to crumble. Russian
soldiers fled. And so, too, did the woman who had taken her job and
office.
No
sooner had Ukrainian authorities swept the college for booby traps than
Ivanovka was back at her desk on Wednesday, sifting through the
evidence her Russian-backed replacement had left behind: a ledger of
employees who had worked for the Russians, a list of students who had
voluntarily gone to Crimea and, peering from beside a potted plant, a
portrait of Russian President Vladimir Putin.
“We’re
going to put it in the bathroom above the toilet,” Ivanovka said as a
colleague slammed the portrait face down, “so everyone will show him
their rear.”
Undoing eight months of occupation will not be so easy, however.
About
a week after the last Russian soldier fled across the Dnieper River,
the mood in Kherson remained largely celebratory. Hundreds still
gathered each day in the central square to hug soldiers. Electrical
power was mostly still out, but businesses were coming back to life.
Russian propaganda billboards were being torn down, and Ukrainian ones
were going up.
But
in institutions across this regional capital, from the city council to
hospitals and schools, newly restored leaders like Ivanovka are facing a
double conundrum. How to rebuild without the thousands of Russia
sympathizers who fled? And even more vexing, what to do with those who
remain? Thousands in the city held an ambivalence toward the Russians,
or even an affinity.
Kherson
was spared the scorched-earth strategy Russia employed elsewhere in
Ukraine. Despite widespread detention and torture in the city, few of
its buildings were shelled. Until sabotaging utilities on the way out,
the Russians kept the lights on and the taps running. Kherson, a Black
Sea port founded by Catherine the Great, was a place Putin aimed to
assimilate, not annihilate.
Russia’s
fleeting success in Kherson is a reflection not only of its brute
force, but also of the connection many here felt to Moscow. Hundreds,
perhaps thousands, of people in Kherson accepted Russian passports in
the hope of receiving benefits. Many more accepted thick envelopes of
Russian rubles on top of their pay as an inducement to stay in their
jobs.
As
Ivanovka rifled through documents, a Ukrainian intelligence agent poked
his head in to ask for information on the woman who replaced her.
Ivanovka suggested he question a security guard named Vyacheslav
Maksymov, who was close to the woman and had also kept working.
“And take the keys away from him,” she said.
The agent rebuffed a reporter’s request to observe the questioning.
“Better you don’t,” he said. “We haven’t been home for a long time and when we confront these people, sometimes we snap.”
Selling a ‘United Russia’
Across
the street from the prison where Russians allegedly executed some of
their enemies sits a soaring performance hall. If Kherson’s torture chambers
were the hidden side of the occupation, the hall — transformed into a
humanitarian aid hub — was the image the Russians hoped to project.
A
few days after they fled, however, the building was in disarray. Papers
were strewn about. Glass windows and doors were shattered, and a ripped
sign for Putin’s political party lay on the floor.
But
amid the debris remained signs of a concerted attempt to curry favor
with locals. Children’s backpacks featured a cheery Russian teddy bear
sailor urging kids to “stay the course.” Crayon drawings showed smiling
stick figures atop Russian tanks and warships with the words “United
Russia.” An old man wandering through the building grabbed a collection
of plays by Anton Chekhov.
“Of
course, it’s Russian,” he said when asked whether the books were
leftover handouts from the occupation. “What else would it be?”
The
clearest picture of Russia’s persuasion campaign lay in a disheveled
office. There, piles of documents catalogued Kherson residents applying
for aid, pensions, passports and employment. One listed children sent to
a summer camp in Crimea. Applications to volunteer at the aid center
filled binder after binder.
The
Washington Post visited addresses for almost three dozen applicants. A
few addresses appeared to be false, perhaps a sign that people felt
forced to apply. Most were real but the homes were empty. Neighbors or
relatives said the applicants had fled days or weeks before the city was
liberated, often to Crimea.
“I’d
be okay with any kind of government so long as it takes care of its
people,” said a woman named Marharyta as she rummaged through the
abandoned aid center. The Post is identifying her only by her first name
because of the risk of retribution.
Some
residents said they were swayed by billboards and social media posts
promising that a Russian passport would enable them to obtain medical
care or a Russian pension worth four times as much as their Ukrainian
one.
Sasha,
60, whom The Post is also identifying only by his first name, said he
lined up for six hours to receive the first of four 10,000 ruble
payments at what was once the Ukrainian post office. Without telling his
wife, Sasha also applied for a Russian passport so he could receive a
permanent Russian pension.
“I
have a [Ukrainian] pension, but it’s not enough to live or get
medicine,” he said. As soon as the Russians fled, however, the rubles
were nearly worthless and he was left with little but the shame of
having taken the payments and the passport.
“I
don’t know what will happen,” he said as his wife squirmed
uncomfortably and a neighbor eavesdropped. “The Ukrainians might shoot
me tomorrow.”
Sasha
said he accepted responsibility for his mistake but also felt betrayed
by Russia, which he always thought of as a “brotherly” country. “They
looted my birthplace,” he said of the Russian withdrawal from Kherson.
“If before I had some loyalty to Russia, now I have only disgust.”
On
a crisp morning four days after the Russians fled, Halyna Luhova stood
on the street corner in front of Kherson’s city council building. A sign
on the front door said “MINES MINES MINES,” so Luhova, the former city
council secretary, and other officials were waiting for the Ukrainian
military to check for explosives or booby traps and let them in.
The
officials gathered in small groups to discuss bread deliveries and
repairs to the electrical grid. But again and again, the conversation
turned to collaborators. Of the nine councilors before the invasion,
five had conspired with the Russians, she said. One, a wealthy real
estate magnate, was appointed mayor. The real mayor was still missing.
“They fled to Crimea and took everything with them,” said Luhova, who is now the head of the city military administration.
In
some institutions, workers simply refused to follow Russian orders.
Teachers risked their lives to offer classes online to students, an
alternative to the Russian propaganda offered in their schools. And the
staff at one of the main hospitals simply ignored many demands from
their new bosses.
Andrii
Koksharov, the head of the trauma department, said he refused to sign a
new set of rules imposed by his Russian bosses and refused to accept a
Russian salary, but he was allowed to keep working because his skills
were needed. At one point, Russians forced him at gunpoint to amputate
one of their soldier’s arms, he said.
When
the Russians fled, the hospital’s director, Leonid Rymyga, emerged from
hiding and went back to work. To his surprise, his Russian-installed
replacement did not flee but tried to negotiate to keep a job.
“I told him to negotiate with the SBU,” Rymyga said, referring to the Ukrainian intelligence service.
A
flower placed in a tree that was broken in fighting in Shumenskyi Park
during heavy clashes between Ukrainian and Russian forces in Kherson
city on Nov. 16. (Wojciech Grzedzinski for The Washington Post)
‘You sold out your motherland’
The
Russians initially kept their distance from Kherson Maritime College, a
hulking Soviet-era institution where young men and women learn to be
commercial ship captains. But then one day, they burst into the head
offices and held officials at gunpoint.
In
May, Russian-appointed officials visited and said that the college,
like Kherson, was “Russian now.” When Ivanovka and others objected, they
were fired and barred from campus. On July 21, Russian security agents
visited her home and confiscated her passport, phone and computers.
In
her place, the Russians installed a low-level teacher whose eagerness
to work under occupation elevated her to deputy director.
“I
never thought a teacher of Ukrainian history and patriotic education
would collaborate with the occupiers,” Ivanovka said of her replacement,
who could not be reached for comment.
The
replacement moved into Ivanovka’s office and put up the Putin portrait.
Then she began trying to coerce other employees to keep working, said
Oleksiy Kucher, 36, a lawyer who works at the school. Sometimes she said
staying was the right thing to do, Kucher said. Other times, however,
she hinted there could be consequences for saying no.
“She
would send texts saying, ‘Aren’t you afraid you’ll start your car and
it’ll explode?’” Kucher said, adding that he ignored the threat.
The
staff shriveled from 178 to 51, and the number of cadets from 1,200 to
71. Yet, the payroll nearly doubled. Those who continued working were
rewarded with salaries in rubles nearly triple their Ukrainian pay.
Maksymov,
the security guard whom Ivanovka suspected, insisted he was not a
collaborator. He said he helped Ukrainian students escape in the hectic
early days of the invasion and kept working because he and his family
had nowhere to go. He also claimed that he prevented the Russians from
storing military equipment on campus.
Ivanovka
didn’t believe it. When the SBU finished questioning Maksymov, Ivanovka
confronted him on the college quad. “You were happy to work for Russian
rubles,” she said angrily. “You lived here, you got paid, and still you
sold out your motherland.”
The burly man recoiled, then shot back that only a court could judge him. But Ivanovka continued delivering her own sentence.
“Are you kidding me?” she said. “Did you get a paycheck?”
“So what?” he said. “The entire city got a Russian paycheck!”
“Where
are they now, huh?” she said with a gesture toward the other side of
the river, where the Russians and their supporters had retreated days
earlier.
“Well,
I’m not there, am I?” Maksymov said. He turned to get into his beat-up
blue car, then pointed at a Ukrainian flag stuck in its dashboard.
“Do you see this?” he said. “I never took it down! I took down the Russian one, but I never took this one down.”
Anastacia Galouchka and Serhii Korolchuk contributed to this report.
Michael
E. Miller is The Washington Post's Sydney bureau chief. He was
previously on the local enterprise team. He joined The Washington Post
in 2015 and has also reported for the newspaper from Afghanistan and
Mexico. Samantha Schmidt is The Washington Post's Bogotá bureau chief, covering all of Spanish-speaking South America.